Ha Giang is the final frontier in northern Vietnam, a lunar landscape of limestone pinnacles and granite outcrops.

On a map: it juts up like a boil into southern China, or at least that is how the Chinese seem to view it. The far north of the province has some of the most spectacular scenery in Vietnam and the trip between Dong Van and Meo Vac is a mind-blower for motorbikers, but not much fun on buses. It should be one of the most popular destinations in this region, but is one of those rare provinces that still requires a travel permit and the bureaucratic baloney keeps most at bay.

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