Undeniably, the beach is the big attraction in this part of Vietnam. Nha Trang and Mui Ne have become the favoured destinations for those whose idea of paradise is reclining by the water, cocktail in hand, contemplating whether to have a massage or a pedicure before hitting the bars later.


 These sedentary delights are juxtaposed with an excellent array of outdoor activities – swimming, scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, windsurfing and kite-surfing – making this simultaneously the action capital of the country.

With most visitors not venturing outside of the two tourist enclaves, the rest of the beautiful coast is wonderfully overlooked – leaving empty beaches to be explored by the more independently minded. The fine art of hassling travellers has not yet spread to the more remote parts, quickly dispelling any negative impressions engendered in the tourist traps.

If you’ve got the dosh, another way of beating the crowds is to head to one of the exclusive resorts popping up along the coast. Wealthy Western ex-pats from around Asia seem to be doing just that, particularly business-people based in nearby Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Those with an eye towards cultural edification will find a wealth of Cham towers and what remains of the Cham population in this region. While not as archeologically important as the My Son site further north, they’re much more accessible and, in many ways, more impressive to the untrained eye.

This region is also home to the most poignant reminder of the American War – the Son My Memorial, commemorating the villagers who perished in what the West remembers as the My Lai Massacre.

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