The largest of Vietnam’s nature preserves, Yok Don National Park (Vuon Quoc Gia Yok Don; 783 049; yokdon@dng.vnn.vn) has been gradually expanded and today encompasses 115, 545 hectares of mainly dry deciduous forest, with the beautiful Serepok River flowing through it.

Yok Don is home to 67 mammal species, 38 of which are listed as endangered in Indochina, and 17 of those endangered worldwide. The park habitat accommodates elephants, tigers and leopards, as well as nearly 250 different species of bird – including a pair of critically-endangered giant ibis (Thaumatibis gigantea), sighted in 2003. More common wildlife in the park includes deer, monkeys and snakes. In recent years previously unknown animals like the Canisauvus, a species of wild dog, have been discovered.

The delicate balance between ecological conservation and the preservation of local cultures is a challenge, considering the poverty of the region’speople and their traditional means of survival (eg hunting). However, the Vietnamese government is working with international agencies, such as the UN Development Programme (UNDP), to manage this ongoing balance, aiming towards education and community participation in conservation practices.

There are 17 ethnic groups in the region, including a significant number that have migrated from northern Vietnam. The locals are mostly Ede and M’nong, a matrilineal tribe. The family name is passed down through the mother, and children are considered members of their mother’s family.

The M’nong are known for their skills in capturing wild elephants, dozens of which live in the area. Traditional elephant-racing festivals are put on from time to time. Visitors can arrange elephant rides or guided treks through beautiful forests. Elephants typically carry three people, but for heavier Westerners two is usually the limit. Ele­phant rides can be arranged through DakLak Tourist in Buon Ma Thuot, but you can also just turn up and make arrangements. Booking direct costs from 100, 000 to 200, 000d per hour.